IN THE WORDS OF POET RICHARD EBERHART…
STYLE IS THE PERFECTION OF A POINT OF VIEW
Every season menswear is becoming more prominent in the industry. As I see it, menswear is just as applicable as womenswear in voicing opinions and looking at current trends. Lets rewind back in time for a minute or two and think about how immensely beautifully men have dressed themselves historically, from the incredible tailoring and accessories of the 1940s where men had a hat for every occasion (which I think is fab!), to the cool casual aesthetic of 90s streetwear evocative of the Fresh Prince and I am proud to say that this is something that is becoming ever more popular in modern day menswear.
From the relaxed tailoring with an extremely wide aesthetic pinpointed at the shoulders that we saw at Balenciaga, Issey Miyake and Gucci to the more muted palette seen at Topman, Versace and Valentino and the diverse prints seen at Givenchy and Dries Van Noten; it is clear to see that menswear is focusing its exploratory attitude to the diversity of the modern man’s wardrobe.
Men can breathe a huge sigh of relief everywhere, as whilst we did see some fresh trends on the spring/ summer 17 catwalks, others came in the form of modern styles recycled from the past. We saw this from the prominent use of denim and camouflage this season, as well as cropped trousers that dominated the catwalks.
So if you’re a guy who likes to get suited and booted then get ready for some trendy new ways to do so or, if you’re on a 90s revamp vibe, then this really is your season.
As Eberhart says, it’s how you interpret these trends that counts. Similarly to my womenswear trends – it’s all about what you feel comfortable in. So take this as a basis to create your own individual vibe and let your personality shine through.
Blast out the summer biggie smalls vibes and let’s take it back to the 90s; home of slogans, bomber jackets, hoodies, caps and backpacks – total classics of the time but with a few modern updates, of course! A trend which designers continually revert to, creating a plethora of nostalgia for this super cool trend.
A streetwear trend with strong links to luxe athleisure from an iconic fashion era, which was clear to see at the Astrid Anderson show, a signatory of the designer. We saw a variety of sports technical wear at Nasir Mazhar’s show proving that the 90s is back with avengeance in the modern mans SS’17 wardrobe and ironic slogan tees by the amazing Alessandro Michele at Gucci.
Gosha Rubchinskiy and Vetements have also done super exciting collaborations with brands such as Champion, Fila and Reebok – a huge hit on the high street making these bygone brands cool again and a must have item in everybody’s wardrobe.
Quite simply pair a slogan top be it a tee, sweater or both with your favourite jeans and you’re transformed into a typical 90s kid. Add a distressed cap and backpack with an oversized denim jacket and your best Nikes and, in the words of biggie, “the sky’s the limit.” Try layering a hoodie and bomber onto the look as more really is more this season, mix and match to your hearts content and the more slogans the better!
Focused on the colour of stone we saw an exemplary attitude across the board this season to the more natural colour palette on the menswear catwalks, following on from grey which was the highlight colour of last season.
Most prevalent at Topman, Versace and Valentino we saw the colour stone dominating key items of our wardrobes from high – waisted trousers to tailored suiting.
Designers such as Topman and Versace paired these ashen tones with vibrant blues and purples to compliment their looks and draw a contrast of excitement between them.
HOW TO WEAR THIS TREND;
This is a trend that you can style any which way you like, from an all-inclusive stone ensemble to a more casual aesthetic worn alongside pops of colour to enlighten your look.
I’m talking hoodies, t –shirts, trousers, shirts, hats, trenches, bomber jackets, tailored suits … I mean I could go on but I’m sure you get the picture and the best news is that this is a colour palette which won’t exclude any of you as it suits all skin types.
Gone away are the slim fit suits of yester year. It is time to let yourself loose over this super on trend relaxed fit tailoring that we are seeing everywhere this season.
I’m sure you’ve realised that the slim fit suit has not just been a fleeting trend but has been the popular tailored style making up the best part of a decade.
Most prevelant at the russian designers, Pitti Uomo show, we saw a host of broadly cut suits navy in colour. This more relaxed tailored aesthetic was also seen at the Issey Miyake and Gucci shows with the likes of Bottega Venata and Balenciaga interpreting the trend to focus mainly on the shoulders creating a broad shouldered silhouette.
HOW TO WEAR THIS TREND;
Yay to not having to deal with cosy slimmer fits within these warmer months, it’s time to make way for the wider tailored fit. This does not mean you go up a few sizes in your favourite shop, it just means that you still buy the same size but just the over all look is meant to be seen as oversized, a slouchy look.
Pair this trend with a crisp tee and your favourite trainers – this season it’s all about letting your body breathe and not feeling uptight and stuffy.
Camouflage is back this season but did it ever go away? Probably not.. Something of a constant seen on the high street bringing a military offering to our wardrobes with a more luxurious vibe this season, moving away from the typical street edge style.
Camo is more of a seasonally updated wardrobe staple rather than a full on trend, but definitely a must have in every mans wardrobe. The pattern was perfectly imposed upon the Givenchy, Valentino and Dsquared2 catwalks with Dries Van Noten taking it one step further and collaborating her obsession of florals with this popular trend – you can rest assured that camouflage is here to stay.
This pattern is further encouraged by the booming popularity of the colour green – this spring/summers season key colour trend. Although green has been around for a few seasons now, its more prevelant than ever, but instead of being one shade the colour is reimagined, split up and mixed together.
HOW TO WEAR THIS TREND;
In terms of skin tone, generally speaking, if you are fair, the darker shades of green will suit better as these will contrast with the skin whereas darker complexions can get away with most shades so take advantage of this and go for bright vibrant greens.
Now don’t go all action man and present yourself in head to toe camouflage as if you’re just about to enter combat mode – keep it simple. This print should be worn as an element of your chosen look paired with more classic, darker palette, wardrobe pieces. This will tone down your look to create a more sophisticated interpretation of this trend.
Or you can always just chuck on a few camo accessories such as a belt or a backpack if a full on ensemble is too intense.
TO CAP IT OFF
Caps are back but facing forwards this time – no no put your snapback back in that wardrobe, it’s baseball caps who are the winners on this team.
They were everywhere for this spring/ summer season and no, not just with your go to denim jacket and casual sportswear, but the cap finds its natural habitat within your day to day suiting as well.
This new breed of cap are made from luxurious materials such as exotic skins seen at Versace or both leather and suede seen at the likes of Balmain, Les Hommes and Ferragamo. Also seen in a variety of colours; blues and reds seen at A.P.C. and Balenciaga and the most popular neutral shade seen again at Acne Studios.
HOW TO WEAR THIS TREND;
As I said the cap is the cherry on top to any look that you go for, whether you’re chilling at the weekend or striding into work in your favourite suit.
By adding the luxurious material element to your cap of choice you elevate your look, which makes this accessory perfectly acceptable to be worn with tailoring.